This past week, at a preview for the Costume Institute’s new exhibit “Women Dressing Women,” I overheard women talking about the women they were wearing.
It was an apt topic given the occasion, but I also sensed an excitement from fashion journalists and fashion fans alike that has been lacking—at least recently, after a series of white men were given highly coveted creative director appointments, leaving many wondering: Where are the women? While I was standing in front of a mannequin that was dressed in a Spring 2023 Simone Rocha dress adorned with porcelain baby teeth and pearl-beaded breast pockets reminiscent of the cups of a nursing bra, a friend excitedly pointed out the Simone Rocha dress on my own body. According to the gallery label, the piece I was in the midst of admiring was meant to evoke the “spooky, deranged insomnia” of early motherhoo
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