Butterless puff pastry is bad enough. But other food hacks can be fatal | Felicity Cloake

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Patisserie Valerie’s substitution of marge caused shock – but it’s part of an infamous tradition blighting the restaurant industry, says food and drink writer Felicity Cloake

The revelation that struggling bakery chain Patisserie Valerie was so strapped for cash under its previous management that it took the butter out of its puff pastry may have shocked its new owners, but it didn’t come as much surprise to many in the industry. Traditional or not, if something isn’t sold as “all-butter”, it won’t be – in fact, in France, unless your croissant is advertised as pur beurre it will probably be made with margarine, and priced accordingly.

 

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