The Rovos Rail is one of the most luxurious trains in the world.The family-owned business has survived crises like near-bankruptcy, Covid lockdowns, and crumbling national rail infrastructure - but remains one of the world's best.
"You must appreciate that nowhere in the world was there a train with a bathroom en-suite," Vos said shortly before departure from Pretoria."That was totally unheard of. And to have a double bed? That was really going over the top!" And despite many difficulties outside of its control, it's clear that travellers worldwide still revere Rovos Rail. This journey, between Pretoria and Cape Town in early January, involved 21 coaches and 31 suites, which slept 59 guests from 13 different countries - a train almost at full capacity for the three-night journey.
Rovos buys many of its carriages as scrap, and then builds them back up to exacting standards in its Pretoria yard. Stepping into the lounge car for the first time is an overwhelming experience - soft lighting, plush carpets, wood-panelled walls, and deep, comfortable sofas seem at odds with what you'd expect on most trains.Guests then meet their dedicated host or hostess, who show you to and around your suite, and will offer in-room assistance for the duration of the journey.Each air-conditioned suite has a private bathroom with a toilet, basin and shower, and tea and coffee facilities.
"I'm very proud of the wood finish on the trains. Things like the doors, cupboards, and picture frames were built by people who previously knew nothing about the craft, and they're doing a superb job of carpentry on the train," Vos says.Breakfast is the most casual affair, with guests free to arrive between 7 am and 10 am and order off a menu that changes daily.
Lunches and dinners are extravagant affairs on the Rovos Rail. They end with desert wines or liqueurs in thimble-size crystal glasses. Photo: Andrew Thompson. En-route is a sealed smoking room and a club lounge with a full-service bar, various chairs for reclining or writing, and snacks. It's also in the lounge cars that staff serve daily high-teas.Guests can sit on the shaped wooden benches and watch the scenery roll past - with coffee, beer, wine, or gin and tonics in hand if they please.Watching tracks disappear from the open-air observation car. Photo: Andrew Thompson.