This dazzling Brazilian food in the Arndale Market will fill up your soul

When Camila Vargas talks about her mother, the ‘courageous’ Maria do Carmo Vargas Souza, tears prick at her eyes and goosebumps run all up her arms. Camila was the ‘wild one’ of six sisters, all of whom joined the family cooking business, Little Piece of Bahia, which Maria established back home in Brazil in 1989. All except Camila.

“She was in treatment, and I would cry,” she says. “It was lockdown, I was in London. I could not go to her. So I said ‘OK, I will do it’. She was a very strong woman.” “We cook from our ancestors. So it’s a mix of Portuguese and African. There’s no water, only coconut milk, there’s plantain, jackfruit, palm oil from Nigeria. You can be the best chef in the world, but you cannot cook this food. This food is inheritance.”

Even the Brazilian national dish, feijoada, which of course Camila serves, is traced back to slavery. A stew of beans, it is traditionally made with off-cuts - ears, tails, feet of cows and pigs - as well as sausage, ribs, sometimes bacon.

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