Here, WWD rounds up a mix of brands that have big businesses in the contemporary market, highlighting their collections, trends and newness for theThe ‘80s career woman Ohad Seroya looked to last fall must’ve quit her day job and become a full-time socialite. This season, Truman Capote’s Swans were his muses.
Photographed against a bamboo forest, his chinoiserie felt a tad on-the-nose, but was no less heartfelt. Cranes and magnolia flowers were sprayed across all manner of bell-sleeved, caftan-ey silhouettes, for which Halperin pulled loosely from the hanfu robes in Bernardo Bertolucci’s 1987 film, “The Last Emperor.”
The designers leveraged the snake inspiration through two prints inspired by snakes’ scales, which were superimposed on PH5’s signature knit fabrics. The prints were used on PH5’s bestselling wavy dresses and on separates such as suit jackets, crop tops and the brand’s jean-like knit trousers. This offered a range of styles that continued the brand’s balance of feminine and masculine aesthetics.
Siskin also offered new takes on her signature novelty denim, which has become a bestseller for the brand. She updated the style with pieces like a blazer and trouser matching denim set embellished with a sequined floral print. The show notes for resort read “in-between the lines,” a play on the artist inspiration this season, Agnes Martin. “As an in-between season we want some time to pay homage to what Derek built with the foundations.
Hobbs named the collection’s matching sets — which have become bestsellers — as key styles this season, and highlighted that the brand’s solid colored dresses have been gaining more interest. “I was very focused in thinking about just reenergized classics,” she said. “How you’re in between these seasons of fall and spring and it can still feel emotional and exciting, but the silhouettes need to feel really approachable.
The standouts included leather jumpsuit shorts with utility details; denim designs that played with proportions; paper bag pants — a house staple; patent leather pieces; architectural knits; jumpsuits; overdyed silver Japanese gabardine utility suits, and layered mesh capes. The collection was rounded out with a tribute to its archival prints, such as an abstract black-and-white floral that was recreated through hand embroidery and on fabrics like silk and organza. For resort, Rag & Bone’s women’s chief merchandising and designer officer Jennie McCormick said she and her team were inspired by “this sense of journey.”