, the latest chapter of the boom-and-bust story of Scottish whisky is under construction. This week, lifts are being installed in what will soon be the UK’s only vertical whisky distillery. The copper stills were supposed to have arrived from Elgin but this is a team as accustomed to delays as whisky distillers are to waiting for their spirit to mature. “No one has built a building like this before,” says Port of Leith co-owner Ian Stirling.
Is this a new golden age for whisky? “Oh, definitely,” says Laurie. “Since relaunching, we’ve exported the brand into 11 markets around the world. We release new whiskies every year, and sell out every year.” In the bar, he points to an ostentatious decanter, backlit like a starlet. “It’s Lalique crystal with 33-year-old Glenturret in it,” he says. “We sell it for £10,000 a bottle. We’ve just launched in Singapore and have had the most amazing orders coming in because of the weak pound.
Is it?