Flamin' Hot Cheetos, natural wine and toilet paper: Sara's Market in East L.A. adapts to the times

For nearly all of that time, the tiny family-run store, originally called Hilda’s Market, has been a place for the neighborhood’s predominantly Latino residents to grab snacks, household supplies, Mexican beer and American sodas.

“You would never expect it,” said Kyle Lambert, who runs Bootleg Pizza, which pops up occasionally in front of Sara’s Market. Sara’s Market was hitting its stride in recent months, jammed every afternoon with kids from the nearby schools; they’d load up on candy and chips while their parents perused the selection of pet-nats and skin-contact wine. An active social media account and a steady lineup of pop-ups — Lowkey Burritos one night, Evil Cooks tacos or Love Hour burgers the next — helped draw crowds from all over to this little-known corner of L.A., the unincorporated community of City Terrace.

Hours have been cut, and the market now operates just four days a week: Wednesday to Saturday, noon to 5 p.m. Only four customers are allowed in at a time to maintain physical distancing, and customers are limited to one item per person for essentials such as toilet paper and paper towels. Its once-busy sidewalk pop-up calendar — which had been booked through July — is now largely empty as vendors call it quits and customers are urged to stay home.

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