Pei's desire to create prohibitively expensive, unwearable but awe-inspiring gowns has always been her heart's passion, as she called it, but few understood it in the beginning of her career. In 1997, she took a risk and quit her "iron rice bowl" job to open Rose Studio in Beijing.
Just as Pei struggled to find anyone to teach her how to make the kind of clothing she dreamed of, she also had trouble finding skilled craftsmen to work with her at Rose Studio. "It was impossible to find any embroiderers because during the Cultural Revolution, that was considered a really bad skill to have, so no one was learning and no one was teaching — this kind of skill was lost," said Pei.
When asked why she favors couture over ready-to-wear, Pei said she prefers one-on-one connections with customers, and to help them understand how to wear her designs. "For the first 10 years, I was designing ready-to-wear and I was very successful... but as time went on I noticed someone on the street wearing my design and because of the lack of good sense, they didn't know how to wear it. I have to say it's pretty ugly for my standards," said Pei.
"The fame from overseas helped Rose Studio in China," Pei told Fashionista after the Q&A, adding that clients in Europe, the U.S. and China have their differences but all ultimately want the same thing: her high-quality craftsmanship. She opened a second atelier in Paris in early 2015, which was necessary to qualify for an invitation to show during Paris Couture Week.
"There are actually two sectors in my design: one is myself, my mind, my dream, my pursuit, and the other part is the commercial side; I have to sell to make money to feed my team, feed their family," she said. Pei was reminded of a
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