NYFW Recap: The Knitwear Market

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Two years in lockdown — when the only way to digest fashion was through the harsh, cold glare of computer screens — seems to have spurred a reaction among consumers now hungering for tactility.

Rain on a Sunday didn’t stop Henry Zankov from taking over the courtyard at surf apparel shop Saturdays NYC. In fact, he applauded the weather, noting how gray skies allowed his Crayola-coloredto really pop — and that it did. Underneath transparent umbrellas, an orchid pink shredded bouclé crewneck paired with matching high-twist cotton crêpe lounge pants and a calf-length dress with Tetris-looking blocks of yellow, cobalt and emerald were mood lifters amid the fashion week slog.

Zankov is going deeper into ready-to-wear as well, showing ultra-wide-legged chinos and collared button-fronts stitched with gestural figures . These struck the right balance between quirk and cool and made one curious what a full range from him might look like.Zoe Champion loves taking knitwear to places it should not go: last fall she launched it into outer space and for spring, she plunged it into the depths of the ocean.

Her answer was to go back to square one, reflecting on a time before the internet infiltrated every aspect of daily life and minimalists like Helmut Lang and Calvin Klein ruled the runway. The standouts here were peekaboo white tanks cut from recycled powermesh.

 

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